Recent Developments in Apiculture
Modern
Beekeeping- An Introduction
Modern
Beekeeping are specialist suppliers of high quality beekeeping
equipments and beekeeping supplies. It includes the different as well as
efficient techniques and developments in disease management, hive management
and in all the aspects of apiculture.
As at May 2006, 2707 beekeepers
owned 300 569 hives on 18 996 apiaries (Table 10.4). Beekeeper numbers
continued to decline during 2005/06, falling by 240, compared with 261 last year
and 582 in 2004. However, hive numbers increased by 7641 and reversed the
downward trend of the past several years.
Recent
Developments in Hive management
Thermometer
When
the winter is very cold and temperature steadily declines, the cluster is
forced to rise and move away from the front of the hive faster. If a sufficient
amount of honey is not left in the top body, the colony may starve even if an
abundance of honey still remains at the bottom of the hive!
to install any thermometer with
a sensor to monitor temperature inside of your hive. Such a small investment
will help you control temperature inside of your hives year-round.
During wintertime, if you notice an unexpected temperature drop, you will get a chance to prevent a possible loss of your colonies
During wintertime, if you notice an unexpected temperature drop, you will get a chance to prevent a possible loss of your colonies
Sensors
Sensors are located in the
center of the area above the frames.
Recent
developments in Pest and Disease Management
Immunizing
The Bees
To improve bees' defensive
response to bacteria, I immunize them with freshly-grated onion twice
a year, once during late autumn and once in the early spring if my colonies may
succumb to disease.
External
Beetle And Wax Moth Trap:
A 2 liter drink bottle with a
hole cut 1 1/4" below the neck shoulder. Fill with equal amounts (1/4 – 1
cup each) of vinegar, sugar, and water. Shake until the sugar is dissolved.
Then add a very ripe thinly sliced unpeeled banana or slum gum or rotten orange
and place it in a warm place to begin fermentation. Then hang it from a tree
near the apiary or the stored supers.
Dowda
Method Of Powdered Sugar Dusting:
This may work better during
broodless periods, but treatment may be too late once a broodless period has
been reached in the fall. You need 10X powdered sugar, a measuring cup, a
sifter (tea strainer or flour sifter), and a bee brush.
The hive must have a screened bottom board
(1/8” mesh). Insert a dry bottom board or piece of poster board below the
screen. Separate the brood chambers and sift 1 cup of 10X powdered sugar over
the brood frames of the lower chamber.
Brush the sugar off the top
bars down between the frames. Replace the upper brood chamber, sift another cup
of powdered sugar and brush it down too.
Wait at least 5 minutes, remove the bottom
board and check for mites. Leave the bottom board out for ventilation. If you
see a lot of mites, repeat this every few days.
Comb
Drying And Storage:
After the last honey of the
year has been extracted from your supers, stack them outside near your bee
hives alternating orientation and let the bees lick the wet combs dry over a
few days and then store them over the fall and winter.
Only store honey supers that contain no pollen
and have had very little brood in them as wax moths will damage pollen-laden
comb quickly. Cut out any wax moth tunnels the following spring before placing
them back in service.
Managing
Dead Outs And Over-Winter Deaths:
A colony in which the bees all
died during the growth and production season (spring, summer, or fall) is a
dead out. This is possibly secondary to a serious brood disease, such as AFB.
Dead outs allow other robbing bees to pick up and transmit brood diseases back
to their colony and also allow pests such as wax moths and SHBs an ideal area
to proliferate.
Therefore dead outs require
timely removal from the apiary to prevent disease and pest spread. Colonies
that die over winter and are found in late winter / early spring are not dead
outs and are typically not due to disease (other than to mites, which also die
with the colony).
Although the dead bees and
uneaten pollen frames of over-winter deaths should be removed from the hive,
the hive itself may be safely left in the apiary until the weather warms up.
Varroa
Destructor
Varroa destructor is an
external parasitic mite that attacks the honey bees Apis cerana and Apis
mellifera. The disease caused by the mites is called varroosis.
Characteristics
Of Varroa
Varroa destructor can only
reproduce in a honey bee colony. It attaches to the body of the bee and weakens
the bee by sucking hemolymph. In this process, RNA viruses such as the deformed
wing virus (DWV) spread to bees. A significant mite infestation will lead to
the death of a honey bee colony, usually in the late autumn through early
spring.
The Varroa mite is the parasite
with the most pronounced economic impact on the beekeeping industry. It may be
a contributing factor to colony collapse disorder, as research shows it is the
main factor for collapsed colonies in Ontario, Canada and Hawaii, USA.
Control
Or Preventive Measures And Treatment
Chemical Measures
Varroa mites can be treated with
commercially available miticides. Miticides must be applied carefully to
minimize the contamination of honey that might be consumed by humans.
Proper use of miticides also slows the development of resistance by the mites.
Synthetic Chemicals
- Pyrethroid insecticide (Apistan)
as strips
- Organophosphate insecticide
(Coumaphos (Check-mite)) as strips
- Manley's
Thymol Crystal and surgical spirit recipe with sugar as food
Naturally Occurring Chemicals
- Formic
acid as vapor or pads (Mite-Away)
- Powdered sugar
(Dowda method), talc, or other "safe" powders with a grain size
between 5 and 15 µm (0.20 and 0.59 mil) can be sprinkled on the bees.
- Sugar
esters (Sucrocide) in spray application
- Oxalic
acid trickling method or applied as vapor
- Natural hops compounds
in strip application (Hopguard)
Physical, Mechanical, Behavioural Methods
Varroa mites
can also be controlled through nonchemical means. Most of these controls are
intended to reduce the mite population to a manageable level, not to eliminate
the mites completely.
Limited drone brood cell method, is
based on limiting the brood space cell for Varroa mites to
inhabit (4.9 mm across — about 0.5 mm smaller than standard), and
also to enhance the difference in size between worker and drone brood, with the
intention of making the drone comb traps more effective in trapping Varroa mites.
Small cell foundations have staunch advocates, though controlled studies have
been generally inconclusive.
Freezing drone brood method takes
advantage of Varroa mites' preference for longer living drone brood.
The beekeeper will put a frame in the hive that is sized to encourage the queen
to lay primarily drone brood. Once the brood is capped, the beekeeper removes
the frame and puts it in the freezer. This kills the Varroa mites
feeding on those bees. It also kills the drone brood, but most hives produce an
excess of drone bees, so it is not generally considered a loss. After freezing,
the frame can be returned to the hive. The nurse bees will clean out the dead
brood (and dead mites) and the cycle continues.
Drone brood excision method is
a variation applicable to top bar
hives. Honey bees tend to place comb suitable for drone brood
along the bottom and outer margins of the comb. Cutting this off at a late
stage of development ("purple eye stage") and discarding it reduces
the mite load. It also allows for inspection and counting of mites on the
brood.
Birth Control For Varroa
The pads are handy to use, but
the real beauty is that by putting them smack dab in the center of the
broodnest, the fanning by the bees drives the vapors right through the brood
cappings where it can kill the tiny, soft skinned, pale male and developing
female mites. if
you can kill the male mites before they can mate with their partnerss, then
even if some females emerge, they won’t be able to reproduce!
Recent Developments
In Feed Management
Pollen
Supplement
Hack’s
Sack Protein Patties - Procedure
1. 125 lbs. Sugar (Add water and keep wet. Should be a
little thicker than pancake batter.)
2. Add either 3 cups citric acid or 4 quarts of lemon juice,
(this is to put the ph at 4 ½ to 5) 3. Add 1 cup Honey Bee Healthy
4. Add ½ bag Vitamins & Electrolytes
5. Add 10 lbs. pollen (optional)
(keep the mix wet)
6. Mix in 25 lbs. of Inedible Dried eggs
7. Add 3 ½ cups Canola Oil
8. Mix in 24 lbs. (2 gallons) Honey
9. Finish by adding 50 lbs. Brewtech Brewers Yeast. Water
until it has the consistency you desire.
This formula tests out from 16-20% protein
Ultimate Fondant Recipe (Bee Candy, Bee Feed
Paste)
Fondant
(also known as bee candy or bee paste) is used as emergency feed for honey bees
- usually in the winter as a defense against low honey stores. Fondant,
in solid form, is usually placed on the topmost hive frames where the honey
bees can access it as the cluster moves upward in the wintertime.
it is
mostly "inverted sugar" - sucrose (white table sugar) that is broken
down, using heat and a catalyst, into two simpler sugars: fructose and
glucose. Fructose and glucose are far easier for bees to
digest. Although some beekeepers have used baker's (cake) fondant (e.g.
vanilla flavoring and starch which is detremental to the bee's Digestive
System).
Equipment For Making Fondant
- Big pot (depending upon how much you are
making - e.g. a 5 quart or bigger pasta pot). I use one of those
pots used for cooking turkeys in oil from Walmart).
- A strong mixing device for stirring
the sugar/water mixture.
- Electronic "instant-read" pocket
kitchen cooking thermometer (strongly suggest NOT using an
unwieldy candy thermometer )
- Something to pour the fondant into (pans,
plastic bags, plastic frames, etc.
- Scale (one of those electronic kitchen
scales are great at this) - you wont need this after the first few batches
as you'll know what to do and accuracy is not that important.
- Gloves to prevent injury